Good Gravy

Chicken gravy.  Photo by Rob Robitaille

I have watched others make lots and lots of gravy over the years, and it always seemed to be a controlled accident.  But really good gravy is no accident.  It is just takes a few things to happen in order for it to be really good gravy.  But let's back up a moment and discuss what gravy really is.  To be honest, I don't think most people understand it very well.  Basically, gravy is made from the pan juices of meat and/or vegetables and sometimes fish.  Probably the most notable application of this, is from the Thanksgiving turkey, although the same principle applies to anything that has been roasted in a pan like chicken or a beef roast.  In this post, it is all about turkey gravy. 

A nice cast iron, or other heavy pan is best because the gravy can be make right in the pan.  However, you can coax gravy from one of those disposable aluminum pans, which I will touch on in a bit.  The first step in making gravy, once the turkey has vacated the pan, of course, is to pour off all the liquid from the pan into a fat separator, or whatever your favorite method is of separating the fat from the stock, because we will need the stock for the rest of the process.  Following that, you need to deglaze the pan.  To do that, you need to add some stock, water, or an appropriate wine to the pan and put it on some heat.  Gently heat the pan while stirring with a flat spoon or whisk.  The goal is to dissolve all the caramelized bits, or fond, from the bottom of the pan and get them into the liquid.  Often times there is some skin stuck to the pan as well.  Not a problem, loosen that up and get it into the liquid, too because it has a lot of flavor.

Now, if you are using one of those flimsy disposable pans, you can do the same thing, but you will not put it on the burner.  Instead, add hot stock to the pan and loosen all the goodness from the bottom.

Next, you can transfer the liquid to a smaller saucepan.  This makes it easier to work with, and as an added bonus, your roasting pan is half way cleaned up. Which brings me back to the disposable roasting pan, because it's been bugging me since I first mentioned it.  I know that lots of people use them because they think they make things easier.  I hate the damn things and I will argue that they do not make things easier because of a few simple reasons: 1)  You now have to dispose of the thing, so you have to fiddle with folding it up and throwing it out, usually making a mess in the process, 2) a regular roasting pan is half way clean by the process of making gravy, so it will only take a few minutes to finish the job, which is small compared to how much time the whole meal takes anyway, and finally, 3)  the flimsy pans seem to always end up with a hole in them from either a knife or meat fork during the turkey removal process, typically resulting in a mess on the stove or counter and a small chicken panic from the cooking crew.  My recommendation is use a regular roasting pan and don't worry that you can't get all the small stains scrubbed out afterwards as long as it is clean.  I have seen people spend fifteen minutes working on one small spot.  It doesn't have to look like it just came from the store.  It's a roasting pan.  No one is going to be admiring its beauty, anyway.  There, I got that off my chest.

Now that all the goodness from the roasting pan is in a smaller pan, you can add the remaining stock.  Depending on how much stock you gleaned from the pan, you may want to add more.  Most people love gravy, and the only thing worse than bad gravy, is running out of good gravy.  This is your time to adjust the seasoning.  Typically all that is needed is salt and white pepper (unless you don't mind the black specs, then by all means, use black pepper).  You can also haul out a secret weapon, if you need to.  See my previous post.

Finally, it is time to thicken the gravy.  There are several ways to do this, but I prefer a corn starch slurry, which is just some corn starch mixed with enough water to make a liquid.  I will be the first to tell you that this is more of an art than a science since it is hard to know exactly how much gravy you have, as well as people like different thickness of gravy, so you will need to play with it a bit.  I usually start with a couple heaping tablespoons of corn starch and take it from there.  So, to thicken it, just add the slurry to the warm, but not boiling gravy.  Then start whisking and turn on some heat.  You will need to be very attentive at this point to avoid any lumps from forming.  Once it comes up to a low boil, you can turn the heat off and let it cool.  Keep in mind that this will continue to thicken once it cools.  If you think it needs to be thicker, you can repeat the process, but I have always found that no one is really too picky as long is it is not thin like water, speaking strictly from an American standpoint.

The only thing left is to serve the gravy, unless you would like to strain it to remove any lumps.  I personally don't bother with that step because I don't mind a few lumps and so forth in my gravy.  As you have seen, I take a bit of a relaxed approach to cooking because sometimes the little steps to make things look perfect can be a pain in the ass, which just takes away from the enjoyment of cooking.  But, if you don't mind doing those things, I encourage you to do them, and have fun in the process.  After all, this kind of cooking is about having fun and sharing.

My Secret Kitchen Weapons

Assorted secret weapons.  Photo by Rob Robitaille

What comes to mind when you think about secret weapons?  I always think of some evil genius with some kind of underground lair that has a secret weapon that he plans to unleash on the world.  He also has a British accent, because they make such bad-ass bad guys.  But what is a secret weapon, really?  I think that it is something that you drag out for use when the normal stuff just won't cut it.  whether it be an underground lair or kitchen, it's not really that different.  So what are my secret weapons and why are they "secret".  Well, they are not really secret as much as they are under utilized in the American kitchen.  My main secret weapons are:  alcohol, vinegar, fish sauce, and anchovies.  I have more that could fall into that category, but those are the most used.  Here is how.

Alcohol

I have and still use this a lot.  Many people don't understand its use in the kitchen and never use it.  Some use that insufferable cooking wine.  Rule number one:  If you wouldn't pour some in a glass and drink it, don't cook with it.  Period.  So, why is it important in cooking?  For one, flavor, when paired with the right ingredients.  Also, some ingredients have alcohol soluble compounds that you can reveal by using alcohol, such as tomatoes and chile peppers.  Don't believe me, try it.  You can coax out a lot of flavors that you normally wouldn't by adding it, vodka in particular, to tomato sauces and soups.  It also works well with chile peppers, because they have their share of alcohol soluble flavors.  Many people are concerned about using it in food because they think that you will be consuming alcohol with your meal, an issue for some that need to avoid it, but fear not.  Alcohol boils at a lower temperature than water, around 173 degrees, so as long as you cook your food at a temperature higher than that, you are safe.  But, be warned.  Alcohol and gas cook tops are to be used cautiously.  Once the alcohol starts to boil out, it doesn't take much to ignite it.  So, always have a lid ready to put on the pan to extinguish the fire, should their be one.  This is another good reason to keep you face away from you pots and pans, which is always a good idea anyway.  That is not to say that a pan with alcohol in it near an open flame will spontaneously flair up. Just be careful.  And, no, I am not going to instruct you on how to burn off the alcohol.  I'm just not going there for obvious reasons.

Vinegar

This can be used to brighten up most anything.  And when I say brighten up, I mean to complete the musical scale of the flavor you are looking for.  What's this crazy talk?  When you taste something, think of it like music.  There are high notes, mid range notes, and low notes.  You probably have already noticed that.  Basically, you want a balance of flavors and sometimes the mid or high range is lacking.  This is where acid comes in, whether it be citrus, or vinegar.  I really like sherry vinegar for this.  I like to use something around 6 percent acidity that is aged, because it is mellow and less harsh than other vinegars, thus brining something extra to the flavor.  I use this when I have something, for example, a cream sauce, that is flat and needs something to lift it up.  A small splash of sherry vinegar will usually fix that.  Any time you need some kind of acid to fix a flat flavored dish, consider vinegar.  It is definitely something you need to learn by experience, but I encourage you to try.

Fish Sauce and Anchovies

I will discuss these together because they function so similarly.  When used properly, this addition can fill out the flavors in a dish.  Thai cooking uses fish sauce a lot.  As with anchovies, when used properly, you can't tell they are in there, but you can tell if they aren't.  It can be used in mac and cheese, cream sauces, tomato sauces, you name it.  When used sparingly, it provides the much debated umami, or the fifth basic taste along with sweet, salty, sour, and bitter.  Think of it is that mid to low range flavor that is so prevalent in beef or mushrooms.  You can't put your finger on it, but it has a heartiness to it that fills your mouth.  I typically reserve anchovies for use in tomato sauces or red wine sauces because they are often times customary for those dishes.  However, I always have bottle of fish sauce handy for anything that needs it.  Again, if use properly, you won't know they are there, but you can over do it, so use sparingly.  You can always add more, but you can't take it out once it's in there.  Let's just call it "je ne sais quoi" in a bottle or tin.

A I had mentioned, I have more of these "secret weapons", and one that probably deserves honorable mention is sugar.  I typically use this for something that has a bit too much high range flavors in it, possibly in the case of over adjusting with acid.  Sugar helps cut the punch of the acid and bring things back into balance.  Again, use sparingly.  Enjoy food chemistry!